Article by Vicente Salas originally published as blog in Intripidtraveller and updated on 28 October 2021 for SEA Junction
I first visited Cambodia in 1999. From 2000 to 2006, work trips took me there regularly. In 2007, I embarked on an independent consulting career while based in Cambodia.
Being in this country of smiling, friendly people, one cannot help but appreciate, and feel pain at what the country has been through from the 1970s to about the end of the 20th century. For it is a country that has scaled the heights of progress and development – the Angkor empire at its peak in the 11th– 12th century was the largest pre-industrial urban complex worldwide[1], and the crown jewel, Angkor Wat, is still the largest single religious structure in the world. But it has also experienced the hellish descent into civil war and genocide, abetted by world powers and the “cold war”. Almost a quarter of the population died between 1975 and 1980, and virtually all were displaced. Cambodia has one of the highest rates of disability due to UXOs (unexploded ordnance); some areas still have to be cleared of mines, and you will still see warning signs in some areas.
Having lived in Cambodia for the past 13 years, enamored with the country’s history and its people, I wanted to look at the history of relations between Cambodia and the Philippines, exploring the “ties that bind”, and discovering little bits of trivia here and there. In my bicycle rides and walks around Phnom Penh (a habit I have extended here, to Iloilo city) one sees structures you won’t find in other ASEAN countries, the US or Western Europe– for example, a Soviet cultural center, embassies of North Korea and Cuba, North Korean restaurants. Add to this the French colonial legacy of architecture, food and culture – and the distinctive “New Khmer” style, spearheaded by architect Vann Molyvann during the Sihanouk years, 1953-71, and you have a true melting pot, that in the 60s was called “the Paris of the East”. And despite another ASEAN nation’s tag line, “the land of smiles” – it is my experience, after travelling extensively in the region for the past two decades, that nowhere else are people as friendly as in Cambodia, where smiles are offered naturally, even to strangers.
Early Trade in the 6th century and beginning relations in the 16th
Trade between southern Philippines and Cambodia existed as early as the 6th century, but declined after colonization by Spain. Pottery shards of Cambodian origin have been found in the town of Concepcion, Iloilo and are on display at the Museo Iloilo. In 1592, the Cambodian king sent emissaries to the Spanish governor general in Manila, seeking cordial relations, bringing two elephants as gifts, and hoping for support in a dispute with the Siamese[2].
At about the same time two adventurers – one Portuguese, (Diego Veloso), the other Spanish (Blas Ruiz) managed to ingratiate themselves with the Cambodian and Lao rulers. These mercenaries shuttled between Southern Vietnam, colonial Philippines, and the Khmer empire, shifting allegiances and forces to their own advantage, and trying to convince Spanish authorities in Manila to extend their evangelization and imperialist reach to Cambodia. They were even appointed governors of two provinces in southern Cambodia in 1598, until their luck run out and both were killed in a battle with Cambodian & Malaysian forces in 1599[3]. Little else is documented about Cambodian and Philippine connections in subsequent years, and attempts to introduce Christianity were not successful; by the mid-1800s the Kingdom had declined and consequently became a French protectorate, while seeds of discontent and revolution had been sown in the Philippines.
The only head of state to visit colonial Philippines
In 1872, then King Norodom I embarked on an Asian tour, and his visit to the Philippines would be the only visit ever made by a head of state to the 350-year-old Spanish colony. The Philippines at that time was beset with turmoil, and three Filipino priests (Gomez, Burgos and Zamora) who had spoken against injustices committed by Spanish authorities had been recently executed. Historians Ocampo and Jeldres relate that Spanish authorities at that time were highly receptive of the visit, as it was seen as a respite from the simmering crisis.
King Norodom 1 stayed two weeks, his visits to Manila and provinces in Luzon such as Taal, Pampanga and Bulacan are documented in the Philippine national archives. Smitten by the charms of the country, the King proposed marriage to a lovely Bulakena, Josefa Rojas y Manio, but she politely declined. He gave her a huge golden jewel, which her descendants would later refer to as the “golden grenade”. The King also gifted Josefa’s younger sister with a medallion, encrusted with precious stones. On its back was engraved: “S.M. El Rey de Cambodia a la Srta. ANA ROJAS, 1872” (His Majesty the King of Cambodia to Miss Ana Rojas, 1872).
Filipino Musicians in Cambodia were the first OFWs
The King was impressed with Filipino musicians and brought back several, among them one Angel Labrador Fernandez, who helped form the Royal Reed and Brass Band. His son, Samson Fernandez, became Minister of Health and Justice in the 1950s, while Samson’s son, Sosthène Fernandez, became Commander in Chief of the Khmer National Armed Forces in the 1970s[4]. Special quarters were built for the musicians near the Royal Palace, and this area was subsequently called “Ville Manila”[5]. Certainly they were the first waves of “OFWs”. They influenced Khmer classical dancing – the famous Khmer dance known as the “Coconut dance” is derived from the Filipino dance “maglalatik” which also uses coconut shells. I was struck by the similarities when I first saw this Khmer dance – except that the Khmer dancers were both male and female, and were more restrained and gentler in their dancing movements compared to the typical Filipino version, which is danced by bare-chested males and involves vigorous stomping, yelling and clacking of the shells.
Independence and Diplomatic relations: Star Power in the sixties
Official diplomatic relations were established in 1957. There was already overt pressure to Cambodia to join the SEATO alliance in the mid-50s, in the light of the “cold war”, while Cambodia attempted to remain neutral. Former King Norodom Sihanouk relates in colorful detail two visits to Manila. In 1956 he had meetings with President Magsaysay, senator Raul Manglapus (described as a “fellow musician”), and a somewhat shady businessman who turned out to be a CIA agent. His 1964 visit to the Philippines on the invitation of President Macapagal, and the reception he received, is described as “humiliating, one of the worst moments of my life”[6]. Between 1958 and 1965, Philippine interests in Cambodia were overseen by the Philippine Embassy in Saigon, then South Vietnam’s capital, and later, by the Philippine Embassy in Bangkok. Nevertheless, eventually the first resident diplomatic mission in Cambodia was established in 1965 with Rogelio de la Rosa as the first ambassador. He developed close official and personal ties with Sihanouk[7]. This may have been because the ambassador was a former movie actor, while former King Sihanouk wrote movie scripts, organized film festivals, and directed movies that often starred himself and his family.
The Khmer Rouge years, the Western Embargo and UNTAC – 1975 to 1993
The Philippine government closed its embassy in Phnom Penh in March 1975, as the Lon Nol regime’s defeat loomed to the Khmer Rouge[8]. Years of uncertainty and darkness, followed until they were booted out by Vietnamese forces in 1979. But Cambodia (together with Vietnam and Laos) were affiliated with the communist Bloc, and remained largely isolated from the western world and ASEAN until 1990, after the break-up of the Soviet Union.
After the Paris Peace accords in October 1991, and in the immediate post-conflict years during the UNTAC (UN Transitional Authority in Cambodia) administration in 1992-93, Filipinos returned to Cambodia. They were mainly with the UN, International relief organizations and NGOs, in fields as diverse as repatriation of refugees, preparation for elections, health services, education, capacity building, and community organizing. The country’s systems and societal fabric had all been destroyed by the Khmer Rouge, and foreign assistance poured in. UNTAC was a formidable operation – the UN administered the whole country for two years, with peace keepers, diplomats and officials running the country as the path towards national elections, disarmament of the different factions while isolating the Khmer rouge was carried out. It was the largest UN operation of its kind in the whole world, and successfully, democratic elections were held. Diplomatic relations were re-established in December 1994. The Philippine Embassy in Phnom Penh formally re-opened in January 1995, and currently occupies its own chancery in central Phnom Penh.
Philippine-Cambodia connections grow rapidly in the 21st century
Filipino presence has steadily grown in Cambodia over the past 25 years. Growth in both economies, ASEAN membership for Cambodia 1999, the onset of cheap air travel, and the Cambodian “dollarized” economy have certainly contributed to this. Direct flights between Siem Reap (Angkor) and Manila started in 2012, and between Phnom Penh and Manila in early 2019. Cambodia received between 95-100,000 Filipino visitors each year from 2016-2018. As of January 2021, according to the DFA, some 7,000 Filipino expatriates are employed in the sectors of engineering, accounting, banking, business consulting, education, arts and entertainment. These are largely at technical, managerial, professional or executive level. Major Philippine brands San Miguel, United Laboratories, Liwayway, Universal Robina Corporation, Purefoods, Potato Corner, Penshoppe, Jewelmer, and Yellow Cab pizza have found their way to the Cambodian market, thriving as Cambodia’s economic boom (fastest growth rate among ASEAN countries in the past decades) leads to increased domestic consumption. Khmer agricultural produce is of high quality – Khmer jasmine rice, known as “malis” has won a “best rice in the world” award. Cambodian Pepper is much sought after. In 2010, Kampot pepper was granted protected geographic indicator (PGI) status by the World Trade Organization – i.e., only pepper from Kampot province can be sold as “Kampot pepper” — becoming to pepper what Champagne is to sparkling wine or Prosciutto di Parma is to ham[9]. One of the most unforgettable dishes I have tried in Cambodia is crab with fresh-off-the-vine green peppercorns. It was such a treat to have whole black, white, red, green, and even strange-looking long brownish peppercorns available; nothing like freshly ground peppercorns to add that “zing” to dishes, ranging from salads, to main courses, and even to ice cream. And I was once surprised to see some camanchile fruit, known as “kamonsil” in Ilonggo, at one market in Phnom Penh. It was called “Manila tamarind”, probably because it may have come to Cambodia by way of the Philippines.
Filipinos generally liked and admired in Cambodia
Filipinos are said to be admired in Cambodia for several reasons – English language skills, (pinoy teachers are employed by the dozens). Others say that Filipinos are liked for their good interpersonal relations, being fun and entertaining (think karaoke and pinoy musicians and singers), and for their creativity (many are in training, advertising and marketing; pinoys started the Fashion weeks in Cambodia, and managed the first Miss Universe contest franchise, with Cambodia joining the Miss Universe competition only in 2018). Filipino teleseryes have become popular – to the point that some Khmer babies have been named after Philippine stars like “Jericho” and “Ina”. In some NGOs trainings, Khmer facilitator use a popular Philippine noontime TV show theme song as an energizer. Another reason is probably because the Philippines is geographically distant, and has not been a historical rival in the region, compared to neighbors Thailand and Vietnam. Parts of these countries were under Khmer empires of the past until they were overthrown, or ceded. Occasionally, territorial disputes occur, such as in the case of the majestic Preah Vihear temples, a UNESCO World Heritage site, which were elevated to a UN arbitration court and decided in Cambodia’s favor, over Thailand. Even today, some provinces of Thailand and Southern Vietnam have a large ethnic Cambodian population.
Nevertheless, Cambodia has not been spared by scammers from the Philippines – including those who would befriend tourists, lure them for a drink and card game, and then extort money; or even “carolers” who go around with a guitar, envelop in hand, “to help the children”, or “typhoon victims” but when asked for details, will simply walk away to find less inquisitive targets. The Philippine embassy in Phnom Penh has issued warnings about these activities.
Some differences in foreign relations
At the ASEAN summits, Cambodia tends to side with the Chinese position on the West Philippine Sea, to the consternation of Vietnam and the Philippines which have pushed for more assertive statements, but which are ultimately watered down or even discarded to fit the bloc’s consensual style. China has sweetened its relationship with Cambodia over the decades with investments and aid, and when Sihanouk was deposed in the 1971 coup, he fled to exile in Beijing, and the chinese allocated a grand residence for him — this is still used regularly by the present King, Norodom Sihamoni. China continues to be the largest investor in Cambodia, with very cozy ties to the Hun Sen government, the real power in the country.
Cambodia’s success in poverty reduction, infrastructure development, health, HIV and COVID-19
One of the remarkable achievements of Cambodia has been in infrastructure, roads and telecommunications; Cambodia leapt into the digital world, virtually bypassing the analog system; internet speed is faster and rates cheaper compared to the Philippines. Coffee shops, restaurants in the capital have free, unrestricted Wi-Fi; and even laundromats and motorcycle washing places offer it. There has been a commendable rise in female literacy, incomes and child survival. Cambodia is considered a success story in HIV/AIDS. When I first came to Cambodia HIV prevalence was near 2%; by 2017, this was down to 0.5%, and the country had one of the highest rates of access to ARV treatment in the world. In contrast, in the Philippines, HIV rates were rising continuously from 2008 until 2020.
Cambodia is one of the few countries that has dealt well with Covid-19 – as of mid-October 2021, it has one of the highest vaccination rates worldwide, with over 99% of residents of the capital fully immunized, with new cases declining. It is an ASEAN leader in addressing the pandemic, despite being one of the poorest countries in the region, and ranked 30 to 40 places above the Philippines and other ASEAN countries in the Nikkei COVID-19 recovery index[10]. Cambodia has started to give boosters and has already immunized children below 18 years. The country took a different approach to vaccination – prioritizing urban centers and densely populated areas where cases clustered, using a geographic approach, rather than one based on age, and presence of co-morbidities. Tourism and the garment industries have taken a particularly big hit but there are clear and definite signs of a recovery ahead. And as always, the beatific Khmer smile, and that oftenoverused word—resilience — will help push them through this crisis.
Vic Salas, a retired physician & public health specialist, is now back in Iloilo city, after living in Cambodia from 2007-2020. He considers Phnom Penh a second home.
[1] Evans, D et al. A comprehensive archeological map of the world’s largest pre-industrial settlement complex in Angkor, Cambodia. https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC1964867/
[2] Barrows, David P. A History of the Philippines (1905)
[3] Osborne, M. The Mekong: Turbulent Past, Uncertain Future (revised ed., 2006, pp. 46-49)
[4] https://phnompenhpe.dfa.gov.ph/embassy-news/639-descendants-of-first-filipino-migrant-to-cambodia-rekindle-roots-with-the-philippines
[5] “A visit to the Philippines”. Jeldres, J. The Royal House of Cambodia, 2017, p. 64.
[6] “Manila Interlude”, Chap. 5, pp. 75-81, in: Sihanouk and Burchett, My war with the CIA (1973).
[7] https://phnompenhpe.dfa.gov.ph/phl-cambodia-relations
[8] https://www.khmertimeskh.com/80187/60th-anniversary-philippine-cambodia-diplomatic-relations-vibrant-people-centered-relationship/
[9] http://www.bbc.com/travel/story/20200115-the-worlds-most-prized-pepper
[10] https://www.cnn.ph/news/2021/10/6/PH-last-Nikkei-COVID-19-recovery-report-.html
